Essaouira

[Kevin Rathband]

Hi Charlie

Thanks for the show on Saturday night.

I recall a while ago you mentioning that you'd stayed in Essaouira a bit.
Four of us are there for a couple of weeks in August any recommendations
of places to stay or go.

Thanks again

Kevin

[Charlie]

Yes, Kevin, my wife and I have spent three New Years in a row in Morocco, homing in on Marrakech and Essaouira. Much more easy going than I had anticipated (after years of being put off by stories of heavy hassling by street beggars and over-zealous tradesmen) - very friendly people and plenty of comfortable places to stay.

It's a three hour flight from London - BA have daily flights, as does Royal Air Maroc. I haven't tried Atlas Blue,, which may be cheapest.

We use Alistair Sawday's Guide to places to stay in Morocco, making our choice based on the price of a room. Instead of hotels, we prefer riads - upmarket bed-and-breakfast establishments, almost all owned by Europeans who have renovated a three of four story house and opened it up to visitors.

In Essaouria (a still active fishing port on the coast, with a fantastic two-kilometre beach) we twice stayed at Riad Zahia, very luxurious at 600 dirhams a night (almost exactly 60 euros, roughly £45). Ensuite bedroom and inclusive of a big continental breakfast on the roof terrace if it's warm enough.

In Marrakech we stayed at Dar Pangal (owned by a charming Chilean, Julia Miranda) and Dar Soukaina, a bit more expensive, both fine.

If you have time, you should go to Kasbah de Toubkal, perched on top of a mountain in the High Atlas, only about 90 minutes away from Marrakech, the most enjoyable place we've ever stayed anywhere. I don't want to spoil the surprise by saying more, go if you can.