We got our tickets at 1.30pm for 3pm and then, when it got to 3, had to join a queue. On entering I thought it was going to be a disaster - the first room was as rammed as Oxford St on a Saturday afternoon. And this was a Thursday afternoon . . . Luckily, it appeared that the Tate's queue monitor had just let a barrage of folk in and most were doing the lemming thing of huddling in the first room. We escaped through to other rooms and later made our way back to room 1 to find it almost empty - the Tate obviously doesn't let a constant trickle of people in but the occasional barrage.
What to say about what's on show? This is a huge exhibition, incredibly thorough, of the 19th C painter I like the most (alongside Degas tho G was more fun than D). It ranges from his days as a stockbroker and Sunday painter to his final works as his health was consumed by syphilis. Some of the works are mediocre. Many are excellent. The hanging of the work is by theme - women, symbol, words etc - rather than chronological which I found annoying as it meant paintings with decades between them get hung beside one another. That Gauguin found in Polynesia the right mix of exoticism and symbolism to inspire his best work is evident - ironically, Tahiti was not the Eden he imagined so he recreated it in paintings as he wanted it to be.
Shamelessly portrayed as mad, bad and dangerous to know in books and movies over the 20th C this exhibition suggests a more level headed man (although his behaviour towards his estranged wife and kids remains abysmal and he certainly spread syphilis in Tahiti). He spoke up for the Polynesian people against their colonial overseers and the missionaries who had done their worst to destroy the pre-European culture. For this he was persecuted.
At £13.50 it's expensive but the two hours I spent in there were worth it. I'd always wanted to see a Gauguin retrospective and this one, while not totally complete, gives a real sense of an artistic life where a raw vision was followed right to the end.

